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Thread: Brake bleeding problems!

  1. #1
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Brake bleeding problems!

    Can't figure out what im doing wrong here. I can not get the pressure up enough to bleed thw brakes have checked for leaks and etc...nothing have been pumping the pedal for about an hour just wont get any pressure in the lines heres the steps I did.

    Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir. It is usually a light colored reservoir with a black cap.

    Draw out the old fluid. Using a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old, inky fluid as you can.

    Clean the reservoir. After you've gotten all the old brake fluid out, clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag.

    Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.

    Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).

    Can't get past this step...someone help!!! Thanks guys.

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    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
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  2. #2
    Could Use Bigger Tires Senior member caveman's Avatar
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    Make sure the master is full, crack each bleeder at your calipers/wheel cylinders and let them gravity bleed. Do it in this order, left rear, right rear, left front right front. Make sure the reservoir stays full the whole time.

    You just have air in the lines. I have never had the above not work, I have done it on literally hundreds of vehicles.

  3. #3
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Ok that's probably whats wrong I have them closed while pumping will crack em open and give it another shot also...I know the order bit seeing as I only replaces the rear calipers shouldn't be air in the fronts should there or should I go ahead and do em all just in case?

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
    3/4 Ton 10 Bolt front
    14 B FF Rear W/ Disc Conversion
    52/56 Spring Swap
    Cut Fenders and 37's
    Build thread
    http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...3-!&highlight=

  4. #4
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Another 20 mins of pumping with the pass rear bleeder screw cracked and nothing the master is full with the cap on. I have noticed that brake fluid is oozing out of the cap on the reservoir.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
    3/4 Ton 10 Bolt front
    14 B FF Rear W/ Disc Conversion
    52/56 Spring Swap
    Cut Fenders and 37's
    Build thread
    http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...3-!&highlight=

  5. #5
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Also the bolt holding the brake line to the caliper...should it tighten up like any normal bolt? Both the ones I have will tighten to an extent and then loosen as if they are stripped could be a problem with my calipers.......AGAIN???

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
    3/4 Ton 10 Bolt front
    14 B FF Rear W/ Disc Conversion
    52/56 Spring Swap
    Cut Fenders and 37's
    Build thread
    http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...3-!&highlight=

  6. #6
    Could Use Bigger Tires Senior member caveman's Avatar
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    DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKES WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN! I never said pump the brakes with the bleeder open LOL. You are allowing air to enter the brake system every time you let the pedal come back up. Gravity bleeding is letting gravity push the fluid which in turns pushes the air out. Open one bleeder at a time in the order I said once fluid is steadily dripping out (might take a few minutes) close that bleeder and move to the next one. Yes your caliper bolt is stripped.

  7. #7
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Thats what i figured on the bolt...with them not sealing up tight is probably a good reason it never got any pressure in the first place? Misread the part about the bleeders lol oh well. With these calipers its like beating a dead horse anyway! Looks like im back to going to oreilys for what is now the fourth set of calipers that have not worked. 3 of which were because of a striped caliper....

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
    3/4 Ton 10 Bolt front
    14 B FF Rear W/ Disc Conversion
    52/56 Spring Swap
    Cut Fenders and 37's
    Build thread
    http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...3-!&highlight=

  8. #8
    Could Use Bigger Tires Senior member caveman's Avatar
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    That sucks man, very frustrating. Hang in there you will get it.

  9. #9
    Damage case Senior member junkyard dog's Avatar
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    have a 2nd person..... push the pedal down with the bleeder open.....then close the bleeder after they push the pedal down.... then they can release the pedal after you close the bleeder....before hand open the bleeder screws one at a time till fluid drips out then close the bleeder..... also dont push the pedal all the way to the floor if possible, it can damage the master cylinder... and it sounds like the bleeder screws are stripped..... also dont let the master cylinder run dry while doing this... otherwise you start all over again
    1981 blazer- the junkyard dog...rat wheeler....built to go , not for show
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  10. #10
    Senior member rtull32's Avatar
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    Thanks junkyard thats what i was trying just never could get enough pressure im assuming from the faulty calipers...brought my own tools to oreilys this time if none of them work they can pay the core charge when i go to autozone...

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    1983 K5
    350/SM465/NP208
    3/4 Ton 10 Bolt front
    14 B FF Rear W/ Disc Conversion
    52/56 Spring Swap
    Cut Fenders and 37's
    Build thread
    http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...3-!&highlight=

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