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Thread: What did you do to your Blazer today.....

  1. #4861
    Administrator Senior member GobblerK5's Avatar
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    ^^^ yep that's all you need. I think you did good welding that thin sheet metal!

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

    RIP - 1987 K5 Blazer - Silverado Edition
    305 TBI / 700r4 / 10 Bolts / 3.08s

    32x11.50x15 Buckshot Mudders on stock rallys
    Flowmaster 40 series with dual chrome tips out the back
    1987 K5 Silverado - Build Thread

    1991 K5 Blazer - Silverado Edition
    350 TBI / 4L60 / 10 bolts / 4.10s
    35x12.50x15 Cooper Discoverer STT on stock rallys
    1991 K5 Silverado - Build Thread
    NOVEMBER 2012 ----- TRUCK-OF-THE-MONTH!!!!
    APRIL 2013 ----- TRUCK-OF-THE-MONTH!!!!

    And my other ride ---> GobblerK5's 2004 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab - Not much building going on in here though

  2. #4862
    Quote Originally Posted by GobblerK5 View Post
    ^^^ yep that's all you need. I think you did good welding that thin sheet metal!

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Thanks I did blow several holes in it and when I tried smoothing it out some of the thin metal just fell out. It was almost the size of a dime. I got a good tutorial from a guy at work and was able to get it filled in. After that I decided I did not need it that smooth. No one will see most of it with the top on anyway.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

  3. #4863
    The man, the myth, the legend Sardo Numspa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by katncaed View Post
    Easy way to check the EGR valve is to remove the vacuum line from the top, and push up on the internal plunger while at the same time putting your finger over the vacuum port on top the EGR. If the plunger stays in place, the valve is good. If it falls with your finger over the vacuum port, you've got a bad valve. Which means you've also got a vacuum leak. That would also explain the bump in idle speeds.

    Good thing is, you can run it with it like that. But it's going to keep throwing that code. Is the EGR valve from the old motor?
    got into her last night, checked timing and it was way off. adjusted it and she idles much better now. cleaned out the EGR, was a little dirty but not too bad. checked and its still holding vacuum too, so all good there. put her back together and drove her around, sounds much better. will need to check timing again in another few thousand miles.

    now this weekend will be steering box and tv cable.

  4. #4864
    I Yam what I Yam Senior member Crusty Old Shellback's Avatar
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    Changed out the Alt last night. On number 5 now. 2 were bad straight out of the box. Fixed a loose cable and hope that was the main issue. Drove her to work this morning and all looked good.
    A hearst dosen't come with a luggage rack!

    "Desert racing is the fiercest and most exciting competitive sport no one gives a shit about; we as a nation are too busy obsessing over spandex-clad guys chasing balls across manicured lawns to follow anything this extreme. Teams working together against time, nature and each other in conditions you won’t believe exist on a planet that supports life." A.P. Collins

    '87 K5. SOLD.
    '73 pre runner Built 350 w/ Sniper EFI/SM465/205/D44/12bolt/3.73 gears, Spartan locker/auburn posi. 35" tires on 5" deaver spring lift. 12/18" travel F/R Crossover steering.

    December 2015 TOTM

    Build thread: http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...140#post245140

  5. #4865
    Shadetree Mechanic
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    Quote Originally Posted by notime2d8 View Post
    Just for you. I went with a aluminum pan and morso gasket as my old pan was dented and not straight. Also got a magnetic drain plug. I had to put rtv around the output shaft seal to keep it from leaking due to scoring inside the nose cone. Kinda wish I had time to clean and paint the transfer case while I had it out. I replaced the spacers with 1" square tubing and thick/wide washers on top to spread the weight and prevent the frame from dimples.



    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
    What transmission pan is that??
    The one on my 700 R4 has the regular pan and the PO bent the rear passenger side of the pan in to clear the front shaft... It looks like that one is made just to clear the u-joints...

  6. #4866
    The man, the myth, the legend
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blindaviator View Post
    What transmission pan is that??
    The one on my 700 R4 has the regular pan and the PO bent the rear passenger side of the pan in to clear the front shaft... It looks like that one is made just to clear the u-joints...
    It's just a cheap aluminum one from eBay/Amazon. They run about $55. I thought they used different pan depths over the years or at least a deeper pan on trucks? Do you know if you have a standard pan or one of the larger capacity ones?

    The pick I posted was for a th350 transmission with standard size pan too not a 700r4.

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  7. #4867
    Shadetree Mechanic
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    Quote Originally Posted by notime2d8 View Post
    It's just a cheap aluminum one from eBay/Amazon. They run about $55. I thought they used different pan depths over the years or at least a deeper pan on trucks? Do you know if you have a standard pan or one of the larger capacity ones?

    The pick I posted was for a th350 transmission with standard size pan too not a 700r4.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

    Mine is just a standard depth I believe... I couldn't fit the high capacity pan on mine as it would not clear the crossmember and certainly would not clear the drive shaft U-Joint...
    Mainly I am concerned about the driveshaft U-Joint clearance... Even with the "bending" clearance the PO did it is still extremely close (probably less than 1/2" of clearance)...

  8. #4868
    SPARTY ON! Senior member Hoss blazer's Avatar
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    I used a Deep pan on my TH350 and didn't have any clearance issues, if I had to replace a stock pan it would definitely be w/ a deep one from here on out!
    SPARTY ON...468 BBC on the juice, TH350/NP205, Dana 60 spooled, 14 welded, 5.13's, and 18/39.5-15 Boggers
    My build...http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums/...ARTY-ON!-77-k5
    AKA...HARDCORE HOSS!

  9. #4869
    Senior member jjvh5150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss blazer View Post
    I used a Deep pan on my TH350 and didn't have any clearance issues, if I had to replace a stock pan it would definitely be w/ a deep one from here on out!
    X2 on deep pan on TH350.

    Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
    JUNE 2017 Truck Of The Month

  10. #4870
    Shadetree Mechanic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss blazer View Post
    I used a Deep pan on my TH350 and didn't have any clearance issues, if I had to replace a stock pan it would definitely be w/ a deep one from here on out!

    Next time I am out under my K5 I will take a few pics of the pan clearances... With the 700 R4 pan being more square than the TH 350 it has barely any room at the rear where it meets the crossmember and the passenger side rear wouldn't clear the drive shaft U-Joints without modifications... Unless you could find a deep pan with clearances made into in the a fore mentioned areas it wouldn't fit...

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