Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: brakes

  1. #1

    brakes

    Having problem bleeding brakes on a 1975 4 wd blazer. i have done it three times and pedal stinks, does not stop, and brake light on. Do I need to disconnect the brake booster hose? please help. replaced all brakes and got alll air bubbles out of lines.

  2. #2
    Shadetree Mechanic
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Hayden, ID
    Posts
    235
    how are you bleeding the system?
    ...why are you smelling the pedal?
    You shouldn't need to disconnect booster, if the brake light is on my guess is you don't have all the air out of the system.
    I'll need a bit more information to be much help.

    There is an introduction thread for new members but,

    we could let that slide.
    Welcome

    -Russ
    Last edited by vintage steel; 01-05-2012 at 04:53 AM.

  3. #3
    User title Senior member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,586
    Quote Originally Posted by ktillman View Post
    Having problem bleeding brakes on a 1975 4 wd blazer. i have done it three times and pedal stinks, does not stop, and brake light on. Do I need to disconnect the brake booster hose? please help. replaced all brakes and got alll air bubbles out of lines.
    Did you replace the master cylinder? If you did you need to bench bleed it. I mean you can do it in the blazer but disconnect the lines.

  4. #4
    Senior member K5DEEP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    kenosha wi. 53144
    Posts
    1,329
    If your bleeding it make sure your cap is open but on top of reservoir to prevent leaking fuild but allowing air to escape to proper bleeding of system and always start at rear pass tire.

  5. #5
    Senior member trav0302's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    lafayette colorado
    Posts
    3,334
    I didn't know you started at the rear pass and i've never had an issue.

    Under the knife 1972 k5 350 4 speed
    Originally Posted by sevenn07
    "No K5 graveyard, they're all still running. lol"
    cell:303-895-7058 email:trav0302@hotmail.com

  6. #6
    ** (Ryan) ** Senior member mudpupxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    1,817
    This thread was started on Jan 4th and it was the persons only post --just saying...

  7. #7
    Knows their $hit family-man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    williamsburg va
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by trav0302 View Post
    I didn't know you started at the rear pass and i've never had an issue.
    it was always told to me to start farthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards.
    life is a sexually transmitted disease
    1987 k5 blazer 5.7 350tbi bored .30 over, 33x12.50x15 on 15x10s, soft top and hard top, 4" rough country lift. whole family has the k5 bug!!!


  8. #8
    Senior member K5DEEP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    kenosha wi. 53144
    Posts
    1,329
    Supposed to start at the farthest end pass rear,driver rear, pass side then the drives side to remove all the air. It's always been the way I did it and it been good every time.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •